About
Kookai is a French women's fashion label that started in Paris in 1983, founded by Jean-Lou Tepper, Jacques Nataf, and Philippe de Hesdin. The brand's core idea is simple: offer stylish, fashion-forward clothing at prices that don't break the bank. It quickly became known for its youthful, trend-driven designs, appealing to women who wanted to stay current without spending a fortune.
The label made its way to Australia in 1992, thanks to licensees Robert Cromb and Danielle Vagner, who helped establish a strong presence Down Under. In 2017, Cromb and Vagner went a step further by acquiring the European arm of Kookai from the Vivarte Group, uniting the brand under one global identity. Today, Kookai operates as a single, cohesive fashion house, with a presence in multiple countries and a loyal following that spans decades. It remains a go-to for women seeking modern, wearable pieces with a Parisian edge.
Kookai's product range covers dresses, tops, pants, shorts, skirts, jackets, bodysuits, basics, denim, knitwear, sweaters, petite sizing, and coordinated sets. The brand keeps a strong digital footprint with an active Instagram community (@kookai_australia) and a dedicated US e-commerce site, while also maintaining a robust resale market on platforms like eBay and ThredUp.
Mission
Kookai aims to make trendy, Parisian-inspired fashion accessible to young women. The brand focuses on delivering current styles quickly and affordably, so customers can refresh their wardrobes without premium price tags. By blending quality with trend-driven design, Kookai strives to be the go-to label for fashion-conscious shoppers who value both style and value.
History
Kookai's story began in Paris in 1983, when three friends with a passion for fashion decided to create a brand that captured the spirit of the city's streets. Jean-Lou Tepper, Jacques Nataf, and Philippe de Hesdin opened their first store, and the label quickly caught on with young women who loved its affordable yet chic clothing. During the 1980s and 1990s, Kookai expanded across Europe, becoming a familiar name in France and beyond.
The brand's international journey took a significant turn in 1992 when Robert Cromb and Danielle Vagner secured a license to operate Kookai in Australia. Their venture grew into a powerhouse, and by the 2000s, Kookai Australia operated dozens of boutiques and a thriving online business. In 2017, Cromb and Vagner purchased the European operations from Vivarte Group, merging the Australian and European wings into a single global company. This move simplified the brand's structure and allowed for a more unified strategy across markets.
Recent years have seen Kookai focus on expanding its physical footprint. In February 2026, the brand announced plans to open its first UK store on Carnaby Street in London, a milestone that marked its return to the British high street after years of absence. The store opened in May 2026, coinciding with the debut of K-Way on the same street. Around the same time, Kookai expressed interest in entering the Spanish market, targeting Madrid and Valencia after establishing a presence in Barcelona. In New Zealand, the brand took over a former Trenery store in Christchurch, signaling its commitment to the region.
Notable People
Jean-Lou Tepper
Co-founder · 1983
Co-founded Kookai in Paris
Jacques Nataf
Co-founder · 1983
Co-founded Kookai in Paris
Philippe de Hesdin
Co-founder · 1983
Co-founded Kookai in Paris
Robert Cromb
Australian licensee and later owner · 1992-2017
Brought Kookai to Australia and later acquired the European arm
Danielle Vagner
Australian licensee and later owner · 1992-2017
Co-licensed Kookai in Australia and later acquired the European arm
Milestones
1983
Founded in Paris by Jean-Lou Tepper, Jacques Nataf, and Philippe de Hesdin
1992
Licensed to Robert Cromb and Danielle Vagner for Australia
2017
Cromb and Vagner acquired the European arm from Vivarte Group
2026-02
Announced debut UK store on Carnaby Street, London
2026-05
Opened Carnaby Street store, marking UK return
2026
Expansion into Spain (Madrid, Valencia) and new Christchurch location in New Zealand
Sources
Organization Info
- Founded
- 1983-01-01
- Headquarters
- Aubervilliers
- Country
- France
- Type
- Other
- Number of stores
- Over 200
- Key people
- Jean-Lou Tepper, Jacques Nataf, Philippe de Hesdin, Robert Cromb, Danielle Vagner
Official Website
www.kookai.fr
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